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Perfumes: The Guide 2018, by Luca Turin

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Product details

Paperback: 344 pages

Publisher: Perfüümista ÖÜ (June 27, 2018)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 9949885531

ISBN-13: 978-9949885534

Product Dimensions:

5.5 x 0.8 x 8.5 inches

Shipping Weight: 14.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

4.2 out of 5 stars

45 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#38,071 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Turin and Sanchez’s monumental book Perfumes: The A-Z Guide was profound, necessary, passionate and compelling. It stimulated an evolutionary leap in perfumery that changed the landscape and inspired hundreds of new perfumers to use their talent and imagination. It resulted in a world of beauty no one thought possible. It was so vivid, stylish, hilarious and technically good, even critics with little interest in perfume considered it one of the best books of the year.Perfumes The Guide 2018 is a different approach that covers all kinds of fragrances, but puts even more emphasis on niche and artisan perfumes. Like the first book, its substantial, extremely easy to read and highly entertaining, .but for many people this book is a great assist to those attempting to understand and define the genuinely worthwhile creations. Perfumery has changed radically. It's mind-blowing. Many of today's fragrances have to be smelled to be believed, and to generate context. The book focuses, not upon what is found at Neiman Marcus, (etc etc), with their corporate, mass consciousness, profit generating agendas, but rather the wave of perfumes that represent craftsmanship and art (as was centuries ago). That sometimes go to great lengths for the ingredients (and sometimes don't) to develop something of beauty. The pioneers, scientists, explorers, who are often more interested in what they can find, and combine, and present.At a time when so many people are simply looking to take your money, Perfumes The Guide 2018 is more relevant than ever. Luxury may have lost its luster, but this book will help you find the good stuff.

I am well familiar with the earlier edition (Perfumes: The A-Z Guide) and frequently reread snippets of it.The rave points: 1) all-new material. No rehashes of fragrances reviewed in the earlier edition. 2) enjoyable prose. I'm still not sure whether I enjoy the rhapsodies or the pans best, because each type of review is worth reading. 3) learning. Dr. Turin's understanding of perfume structure is pretty much beyond me (and I'm not sure I care all that much), but I always learn something from reading his comments. 4) discovering something new to smell. Several of the niche/independent companies mentioned in reviews in this edition were previously unknown to me, and I'm enjoying getting to know their fragrances. 5) entertaining. It's always fun to disagree with a review and snort loudly and disparage the authors' parentage, etc., while impatiently swiping the Kindle page. (Twilly gets 5 stars? PUHLEASE. It's a chemical disaster, with not only that flat chalky baby-aspirin orange note, but also the eye-stabbing lab-created jasmine thing completely overwhelming the ginger and tuberose.)The quibbles: 1) not nearly as comprehensive as I'd expected. I get it, this is all new, but there are frequently only a few fragrances reviewed from a prolific line. Samples of some lines mentioned are unobtainable by me in the U.S., even in this age of online orders. And some prominent indie/niche lines aren't reviewed at all. (I suspect, for example, that after Turin made a less-than glowing comment on his now-closed blog, Perfumes I Love, about the "natural" ingredients of Hiram Green fragrances, HG declined to have his scents included.) This kind of hit-or-miss inclusion does readers, particularly ones who'd like to use this guide as a "try this line" advisory, a minor injustice. 2) the balance of reviews written by co-authors seems off. I haven't counted, but a casual reading displays far fewer reviews written by Tania Sanchez than I'd expected, given the makeup of the earlier edition. Frankly, I miss seeing her writing and I feel that maybe the reviews are skewed toward one person's tastes rather than a mix of preferences. Which brings me to my third point. 3) personal preferences heavily influence ratings. Unavoidable, probably. All fragrance reviewers have preferences, and those tend to influence what they choose to review as well as the ratings. Even so, this volume seems far more skewed toward Turin's preferences than the earlier edition, and that in itself was fairly influenced. (For example, some really cutting reviews are reserved for scents that seem to have gotten his hopes up by referencing in their names a raw material he loves, such as iris or gardenia, and then turning out to not feature that material as prominently or as correctly as he'd hoped. I, on the other hand, could not possibly care less whether an Iris-This named perfume actually smells like iris butter or not, since I don't love that material, and I wish he'd quit having those knee-jerk reactions.)Even with the quibbles, I've enjoyed this Kindle ebook very much and will probably order the paper copy when it is released. The writing is still a delight.

They’ve done it again in their newest guide! Hilariously acerbic and unforgiving, but also glowing praise for the deserving and unforgettable.I wouldn’t want to create an awful, or even worse *BORING* perfume and have it reviewed by LT and TS: however, I’m darn glad bad perfumes exist because of the incredibly, wonderfully sardonic writing by this duo.This book is like 700-thread count sheets and fine wine to the experienced perfumista, but is also an excellent place to start for the newbie who wants to learn about why perfume is more than just what the sales rep mercilessly douses upon you at Macy’s. LT & TS reveal why the art of perfume is intertextual: rich in history and influence of different eras and genius perfumers. They also divulge secrets of what makes great perfume: those that are technically skillful, but also courageous, innovative, perhaps iconoclastic, the estranging of the familiar, and the familiarization of the strange.If you’ve been thinking about just how boring another soulless aquatic Cool Water clone at the local Sephora is, this guide is for you. If you’re not sure you care about perfume, but you like the caustic and unsparing writing of Oscar Wilde and George Eliot, this guide is still for you. (We’ll just try to make you care by osmosis anyway.)

Don’t waste your money. The reviews on LuckyScent are irrefutably more helpful than what’s in this book, and they’re free. Fort & Manles’ Maduro gets 2 stars, which means “not good”, and a one sentence review (have you even really smelled it?), whereas Calvin Klein’s’ One gets 4 stars and over nine sentences in its review (probably because there’s a lot of searchable reviews to pull from online). Olfactory interpretation can be subjective, but this is silly. Many of this books reviews are on scents I can find in a department store, such as, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Kilian, Issey Miyake, Hilfiger, Hugo Boss, Estee Lauder, Michael Kors. Where are the reviews for Clive Christian, D.S. & Durga, Stephane Humbert Lucas 777, Profumum Roma, or Mona Di Orio…This book is less scent review and more dime-store romance novel. If I wanted to read somebody else’s’ non-descript, “bad writing” I would just read the blog posts from Fragnatica, again, free.

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Perfumes: The Guide 2018, by Luca Turin PDF